SETTING OUT BEARERS

Bearers consist of (in our case) two 45 × 190 H3.2 treated timber laminated together and because it is a contractual load bearing member we must use MSG8 (machine stress graded) timber.

 

Firstly we went along and checked our timber to see which way the canver faced than put an arrow pointing in the direction the canver faced on the side the canver was, this made it easier when putting the timber in place to have the (note:1)canver facing upwards.

Now that we had the canvers we had to start (note:2)laminating 2 lengths of 190×45 H3.2 MSG8 timber to make up bearers which were to be 190×90 H3.2 MSG8 timber. We started by laying out our lengths of 190×45 timber flat on our jack studs to making sure that the canvers were all pointing in one direction. Once we had our first lot of 190×45 timber laid out we could than go over and lay our second lot of 190×45 making sure that were the connections for the first lot were in the centre of the second lot we were putting down as once we laminate this gives sufficient length to put nails and maintain the timbers strength. Once we had all our timber laid out we could than laminate them, we done this using clamps making sure to keep the side the canver was on flush.

Once we had our laminated bearers we could than fix them to the jack studs, we done this by laying the bearers on the jack studs, on edge with the canver facing upwards. We Left about 300mm overhanging the BL which we will be cutting off at a further date.

NOTE 1: We have the canver facing upwards so as when a load is applied to that member it is than able to straighten itself out and if the canver was facing downwards when a load is added to that member the canver has a high possibility of increasing.

 

NOTE 2: When laminating use 100mm flathead galvanized nails. They should be skewed in horizontally at intervals off 6 × thinnest member in a scattered pattern.

SETTING UP JACK STUDS

When setting out the jack stud plate you need to pay a lot of attention to make sure these are in place horizontally, parallel to the BL. With the actual jack studs you want pay specific detail to the height and make sure they are on a horizontal level plane and also vertically level.


- STEP 1

1. The first step to setting out your jack studs is to get all your string lines in place. To do this you firstly need to transfer our building lines onto our profile bottom plates, then go back over and check all our measurements and make sure they are still the right lengths and that the string lines are square and if they aren’t just adjust them till all the measurements are bang on.

2. Once all your string lines were in place we just want to mark them onto our profiles and identify them as building lines by putting a BL next to them.

· STEP 2

1. You can now start marking up on the profiles where your bearers are to go by getting all your measurements from your plans. On side A we had cantilever joists that over hung the bearers by 300mm so therefore we had to set up a string line in 330mm from the building line.

2. On side B of the building one of the walls stepped in 600mm and ran about half the length the building so we had to set up a string line in 630mm from BL and another 30mm for the other half the length the building, we also had to set up string lines at each end 30mm in from BL.

3. We then marked these so as to know what the string lines represent, usually with the distance in from BL, and an arrow showing were the measurement goes to from the BL(e.g. B│L >30│ or │<30 B│L)

· STEP 3

1. Now that we knew where the jack stud plates needed to go we could start setting them out. We started by getting the necessary lengths that we required and laying them out in place but not fastened.

2. When it came time to fasten we started by nailing both ends in line with the string line and in some cases only one end depending on how warped the length of timber was.

3. Fastening the jack stud plates

(a) We than went along and placed spacers along each end as to keep the string line of the length of the member and keep it from being altered. We could than go along with some more spacers and line the boards up parallel to the string line at the space of the spacers and fasten them to the tarmac, starting from one end and working our way to the other end.

(b) For the timber that was to warped to use method 3(a) we lined one end up with the string line, with the canver facing the string line or so the timber was arching away from the string line. We then went along nailing it in starting from the fasten end, we than bent it in towards the string line until it lined up with the string line and at the point where it just curved away we would fasten it and so on until we got to the end.

· STEP 4

1. Now that we had our jack stud plates we could start on putting in the jack studs, because where we were going to be putting the jack studs was on an angle we had to get the length of the longest jack stud that we require and we could than cut all the jack studs that we required to that length.

2. After positioning all the jack studs we were than able to level them all out, we done this by using the dumpy and getting the height from our jack stud level at our datum point, and using the method that we used for our FFL on our profiles (setting out profiles - step 3: 2) we were able to get the lengths of all our jack studs; measuring them up one by one.

3. Once we cut all the jack studs to length and put them back in place we than had to go back over and check them all with the dumpy to make sure, for one that we had them all in the right place / order and secondly that they were the exact length so that they were all on a horizontal level plane.

· STEP 5

1. Now that all the jack studs were in place we were than able to fasten them to the jack stud plates, We had to make sure that the studs were flush with the string line side of the plates when fastening them. We fastened the studs at ____ centres with two 100 mm galvanised nails one on each side skewed down.
2. Once we had fastened all the jack studs we than had to brace them as to keep them level in the direction of the plate. For the braces we used 90 × 45mm timber on one side and 140 × 20mm timber on the other and these were braced at 45°. We also braced the end jack studs perpindicular to the jack stud plate as to keep the end jack studs straight up.

Note 1: The building line indicates were the outer edge of the FFL will be, because boundary joists over hang the bearers by 30mm hence the extra 30mm in from the building line.

PROFILES AND DATUM POINTS

SETTING OUT PROFILES



This process takes a bit of checking and changing and double checking which is essential cause the profiles gives us our FFL (final floor level) our Jack Stud Heights which every vertical measurement are measured too at our datum point (1.), and our BL which every horizontal measurement is measured from at our profile/batter boards, 330 mils this way 30 mils that way etc,


· STEP 1


1. So firstly we started working out the minimum lengths for our batter / profile boards and leave sufficient room for our building line and also the lines for our Jack stud / Bearer lines (which were 30mm,330mm and 630mm in from our building lines) and joist lines(which were 300mm and 600mm in from our building lines).


2. Once we worked out the lengths of our batter boards / batter board plates we were able to start setting out our profiles, these were to be 1m out from our building lines.


3. Once we marked it out we were than able to start putting in our profile plates and uprights and bracing them, we had to brace each upright with at least two braces as to keep it square, with braces going perpendicular to each other.

· STEP 2


Once we set out our uprights we than had to find our datum point (1.), this point is the point to which all vertical measurements are measured from. To find our datum we had to use a dumpy and staff (2.); we went around and measured the height at the corners of each profile. The lowest measurement was our highest ground level point and therefore our datum point.

· STEP 3


1. Now that we had our datum point we were able to get our FFL which was 850mm (3.) high at the datum point, we started by putting up the profile boards at the datum point first and leveling them out.


2. Then we went back to our dumpy and got the measurement up from our datum point profiles and marked this on our staff, we were than able to find the height of the other profile boards by using the dumpy and staff, by moving the staff up or down until the line on the staff lined up with the middle line in the dumpy and made a mark at the bottom of the staff onto the corner profile uprights, this then transferred a level horizontal line from the datum point to the three other profiles.


3. We then put up the rest of the profile boards only partially nailing them in, once they were all up we were than went back over and double check the height and fasten them properly once the heights were right.

· STEP 4


1. Now that we had our FFL we were able to get our jack stud height profile boards which was 400mm below our FFL, we done this by using the same process to get our FFL profile boards up.

NOTE 1: A datum point is the point to which all measurements through the dumpy are taken, this point is always the highest point on the site. You need be particular with all your measurements at this point, as if you get it wrong here you than transfer it to the other points wrong.

NOTE 2: A dumpy and staff is used in a system for transferring a height from one point to another at a level horizontal line

NOTE 3:To get our FFL we added our bearer (190mm), Joist (190mm), particle board (20mm), jack stud plate(50mm), and jack stud(400) which gave us a FFL of 850mm and a jack stud level of 450mm at our datum point.

 

 

SETTING OUT STRING LINES

Setting out profiles! Well we started off by setting out the pegs (paint marks) to our building lines

STEP 1

We started off by setting out our two first pegs which made our main building line which was 3m out from our "side boundary" and 2.5m out from the rear "boundary" and was 16.06m long.The main building line is a fixed line (should not be altered) and therefor gives a point to work off.

STEP 2

Then we moved onto the third peg which we found by measuring 7.5m from one of the established pegs and 17.725m from the other peg where these two measurements met was the position of our third peg

STEP 3

We could than start on setting out our fourth peg, we found this by measuring 16.06m from our third peg parallel to our main building line, 7.5m perpendicular from main building line and 17.725m diagonal from the remaining peg on the main building line, all of which should have met at the same point at to which was our fourth and final peg.\

STEP 4

We than extended 2m at each end of each line to which we placed pegs and fastened string lines, this than formed our building lines. Once we had our string line up we could then go over and double check our measurements which were 16.06m and 7.5m parallels and 17.725 diagonals.

NOTE 1: You aren't always given the diagonal and therefor may have to find it your self. This is found by using the method of A squared plus B squared equals C squared, A (16.06)and B (7.5) being the two perpendicular (90*) lines and C (17.725) the diagonal. This method is used for gutting two lines square (90*) to each other.

NOTE 2: Usually when your finding your building lines the plan will have more than two "maybe" up to 4 measurements in from the boundary line to your building lines.