SETTING UP JACK STUDS

When setting out the jack stud plate you need to pay a lot of attention to make sure these are in place horizontally, parallel to the BL. With the actual jack studs you want pay specific detail to the height and make sure they are on a horizontal level plane and also vertically level.


- STEP 1

1. The first step to setting out your jack studs is to get all your string lines in place. To do this you firstly need to transfer our building lines onto our profile bottom plates, then go back over and check all our measurements and make sure they are still the right lengths and that the string lines are square and if they aren’t just adjust them till all the measurements are bang on.

2. Once all your string lines were in place we just want to mark them onto our profiles and identify them as building lines by putting a BL next to them.

· STEP 2

1. You can now start marking up on the profiles where your bearers are to go by getting all your measurements from your plans. On side A we had cantilever joists that over hung the bearers by 300mm so therefore we had to set up a string line in 330mm from the building line.

2. On side B of the building one of the walls stepped in 600mm and ran about half the length the building so we had to set up a string line in 630mm from BL and another 30mm for the other half the length the building, we also had to set up string lines at each end 30mm in from BL.

3. We then marked these so as to know what the string lines represent, usually with the distance in from BL, and an arrow showing were the measurement goes to from the BL(e.g. B│L >30│ or │<30 B│L)

· STEP 3

1. Now that we knew where the jack stud plates needed to go we could start setting them out. We started by getting the necessary lengths that we required and laying them out in place but not fastened.

2. When it came time to fasten we started by nailing both ends in line with the string line and in some cases only one end depending on how warped the length of timber was.

3. Fastening the jack stud plates

(a) We than went along and placed spacers along each end as to keep the string line of the length of the member and keep it from being altered. We could than go along with some more spacers and line the boards up parallel to the string line at the space of the spacers and fasten them to the tarmac, starting from one end and working our way to the other end.

(b) For the timber that was to warped to use method 3(a) we lined one end up with the string line, with the canver facing the string line or so the timber was arching away from the string line. We then went along nailing it in starting from the fasten end, we than bent it in towards the string line until it lined up with the string line and at the point where it just curved away we would fasten it and so on until we got to the end.

· STEP 4

1. Now that we had our jack stud plates we could start on putting in the jack studs, because where we were going to be putting the jack studs was on an angle we had to get the length of the longest jack stud that we require and we could than cut all the jack studs that we required to that length.

2. After positioning all the jack studs we were than able to level them all out, we done this by using the dumpy and getting the height from our jack stud level at our datum point, and using the method that we used for our FFL on our profiles (setting out profiles - step 3: 2) we were able to get the lengths of all our jack studs; measuring them up one by one.

3. Once we cut all the jack studs to length and put them back in place we than had to go back over and check them all with the dumpy to make sure, for one that we had them all in the right place / order and secondly that they were the exact length so that they were all on a horizontal level plane.

· STEP 5

1. Now that all the jack studs were in place we were than able to fasten them to the jack stud plates, We had to make sure that the studs were flush with the string line side of the plates when fastening them. We fastened the studs at ____ centres with two 100 mm galvanised nails one on each side skewed down.
2. Once we had fastened all the jack studs we than had to brace them as to keep them level in the direction of the plate. For the braces we used 90 × 45mm timber on one side and 140 × 20mm timber on the other and these were braced at 45°. We also braced the end jack studs perpindicular to the jack stud plate as to keep the end jack studs straight up.

Note 1: The building line indicates were the outer edge of the FFL will be, because boundary joists over hang the bearers by 30mm hence the extra 30mm in from the building line.